具体描述
基本信息 书 名:6+安特卫普时尚
作 者:
出版社:
出版日期:201802
版 次:
页 数:0
ISBN :9787568907866
定价:168 元 本店价:131.04 元
折扣:【78】 节省:36.96 元
分类: →
货号:1737864
图书简介 “安特卫普六君子” (The Antwerp Six) ,是指上世纪80年代初在欧洲时尚界崛起的六位比利时设计师的总称。 《6+安特卫普时尚》全面记录了安特卫普时装学院从1663建校至2006年的发展历程,以编年史的形式,图文并茂地呈现了安特卫普时尚在历史上的关键时刻。全书分为四部分,分别讲述安特卫普时尚成为弗拉芒经济的重要组成部分;1663—1982的安特卫普如何在巴黎、伦敦、米兰之后崛起,成为全球时尚之都;1983—1994的安特卫普如何在时尚界确立自己的地位和风格;以及1995之后,台前幕后的安特卫普时尚学院学生们在国际范围内推进时尚发展的过程。全书记录了安特卫普时尚史上每一个振奋人心、震动世界的时刻。6+,因为安特卫普于时尚的意义远不止六君子。", 作者简介 琳达·洛帕(Linda Loppa),出生于比利时,1971年毕业于安特卫普皇家艺术学院时装学院。她率先把山本耀司(Yohji Yamamoto)、川久保玲(Comme des Garcons)等新锐设计师的作品引进比利时,1981年返回母校任教后,一手打造了“安特卫普六君子”(The Antwerp Six)在伦敦时装周上的惊艳亮相,让安特卫普皇家艺术学院时装学院成为世界一流的时尚学院,也让安特卫普成为可以与巴黎、米兰等媲美的时尚之都。", 目 录 插图和节选
Antwerp: A Symphony of Style and Innovation Embark on a journey into the heart of fashion's most electrifying epicenter – Antwerp. This city, steeped in artistic heritage and pulsing with a contemporary creative spirit, has consistently redefined sartorial boundaries, birthing visionary designers and igniting global trends. This exploration delves into the multifaceted phenomenon that is Antwerp fashion, a movement characterized by its intellectual rigor, rebellious spirit, and unwavering commitment to artistic expression. Antwerp’s ascent to the pinnacle of the fashion world is no accident. It is a narrative woven from threads of historical influence, academic excellence, and the audacious courage of its most celebrated creatives. From the hallowed halls of the Royal Academy of Fine Arts to the avant-garde ateliers tucked away in its cobblestone alleys, Antwerp has cultivated a unique ecosystem that nurtures groundbreaking ideas and transforms them into tangible masterpieces. At the core of Antwerp fashion lies a profound appreciation for craftsmanship and a dedication to pushing the limits of material and form. This is not a realm of fleeting fads; rather, it is a testament to the enduring power of thoughtful design, where each stitch, each silhouette, and each textile choice is imbued with intention and artistry. The designers emerging from this Flemish powerhouse are not merely clothing manufacturers; they are storytellers, weaving narratives of identity, culture, and the human condition through their collections. One cannot discuss Antwerp fashion without acknowledging the seismic impact of the "Antwerp Six." This legendary group of designers – Ann Demeulemeester, Dries Van Noten, Dirk Van Saene, Walter Van Beirendonck, Dirk Bikkembergs, and Marina Yee – burst onto the international scene in the 1980s with a bold, intellectual, and undeniably Belgian aesthetic. Their arrival marked a pivotal moment, challenging the prevailing trends and establishing Antwerp as a force to be reckoned with. Their collective vision, though individual in its execution, shared a common thread of unconventionality, a willingness to experiment, and a deep respect for the craft. They injected a potent dose of intellectualism into fashion, proving that clothing could be both thought-provoking and visually arresting. Their legacy continues to inspire generations of designers, shaping the very DNA of Antwerp's fashion identity. Beyond the iconic six, Antwerp has continued to be a fertile ground for emerging talent. The Royal Academy of Fine Arts, a legendary institution, has served as the crucible for countless designers who have gone on to make their mark on the global stage. The rigorous curriculum, coupled with a strong emphasis on conceptual thinking and individual development, fosters an environment where young designers are encouraged to explore their unique artistic voices. This academic foundation, combined with the city’s vibrant cultural landscape, creates a potent brew of inspiration and innovation. Students are exposed to a rich tapestry of art, architecture, and historical context, all of which inform their creative process. The academy’s alumni network further strengthens this ecosystem, providing mentorship and opportunities for aspiring designers. The aesthetic of Antwerp fashion is remarkably diverse, yet unified by a shared ethos. It is a spectrum that encompasses the darkly romantic and exquisitely tailored to the playfully avant-garde and conceptually driven. There’s a meticulous attention to detail, a fascination with silhouette, and an adventurous approach to textiles. Designers often draw inspiration from historical periods, artistic movements, and the urban environment itself, reinterpreting these influences through a distinctly modern lens. The use of unusual materials, unexpected combinations, and deconstructed forms are hallmarks of the Antwerp sensibility. This willingness to experiment, to question traditional notions of beauty and wearability, is what makes Antwerp fashion so consistently compelling and relevant. Dries Van Noten, for instance, is renowned for his masterful use of color, print, and luxurious fabrics, creating collections that are both opulent and deeply personal. His work often feels like wearable art, blending historical references with a contemporary sensibility. Ann Demeulemeester, on the other hand, is celebrated for her poetic and androgynous designs, characterized by sharp tailoring, monochrome palettes, and a spirit of romantic rebellion. Her pieces possess a timeless elegance, imbued with a sense of quiet drama. Walter Van Beirendonck is a master of provocation and optimism, his collections often featuring vibrant colors, bold graphics, and a playful, almost childlike, exuberance that carries a powerful social commentary. His work is a celebration of individuality and a fearless embrace of the future. The influence of Antwerp fashion extends far beyond the runway. The city itself is a testament to its creative prowess. Boutiques showcasing independent designers, art galleries exhibiting fashion-related works, and the sheer visual stimulation of its streets all contribute to its unique atmosphere. The "MoMu" (Fashion Museum Antwerp) plays a crucial role in preserving and celebrating this heritage, acting as a vital cultural institution that educates and inspires. Its exhibitions delve into the work of established designers, explore specific themes within fashion history, and highlight the ongoing evolution of Antwerp’s sartorial landscape. Furthermore, the entrepreneurial spirit within Antwerp fashion is palpable. Designers not only create collections but also build strong brand identities, cultivate loyal customer bases, and navigate the complexities of the global fashion industry. This holistic approach, encompassing both creative vision and business acumen, is a testament to the dedication and resilience of the Antwerp fashion community. The city’s integrated approach to fashion, where design, education, retail, and cultural institutions work in synergy, creates a self-sustaining and dynamic environment. This exploration aims to unravel the threads that bind Antwerp fashion together, to understand the forces that have shaped its identity, and to appreciate the enduring legacy of its most influential voices. It is an invitation to discover a world where creativity reigns supreme, where boundaries are challenged, and where fashion is elevated to an art form. It is a celebration of innovation, individuality, and the relentless pursuit of aesthetic excellence that defines the inimitable spirit of Antwerp fashion. Through detailed analysis of key movements, influential figures, and the underlying philosophies, this discourse will illuminate why Antwerp remains a pivotal destination for anyone seeking to understand the cutting edge of global style. It’s about understanding the ‘why’ behind the collections, the conceptual frameworks that underpin the garments, and the cultural dialogues that Antwerp fashion so eloquently engages in. It is a deep dive into a phenomenon that has irrevocably shaped the modern fashion landscape.