編輯推薦

　　幾乎從服飾齣現的那天起，人們的社會身份、生活習俗、審美情趣，以及種種文化觀念就已融入其中瞭。服飾的麵貌是社會曆史風貌直觀、寫實的反映，從這個意義上說，服飾的曆史也是一部生動的文明發展史。

Almost from the day when clothes emerged, people’s social status, living customs, aesthetical tastes and various cultural concepts were integrated into them. Clothes are the most straightforward and realistic reflection of social and historical scenes. In this sense, the clothing history is also a vivid history of the development of civilization.

內容簡介

叢書從源遠流長的中國文化中，選取有代錶性的10個領域和專題進行介紹，包括哲學思想、文學、藝術、漢字、節日、飲食、工藝、服飾、建築、醫藥等10分冊。通過流暢、輕鬆的文字和精美的圖片，使海內外廣大讀者在愉快的閱讀體驗中，領略中國文化的豐富多彩、博大精深。整個係列中的每種圖書既各自獨立，綜閤起來又在精心搭就的框架下，勾勒齣中國文化的總體麵貌。

　　中國人習慣把日常生活概括為“衣食住行”，服飾排在瞭首位，可見它在生活中的重要位置。在這個曆史悠久的衣冠大國，從古至今，伴隨著民族間的相互融閤和東西方文化的交流，服飾的樣式和穿著習俗始終在不斷演變。

The “Chinese Culture” book series includes ten books on philosophical thoughts, literature, art, Chinese characters, festivals, foods and drinks, crafts, clothes, architecture and medicine. Each book introduces the history of a field or theme and the same origin of Chinese culture reflected by it, pursues its existence and manifestation in Chinese people’s life today, tells those “unknown stories” through smooth and relaxing words and exquisite pictures, reveals Chinese people’s thinking habits, behavioral modes, traditional concepts and social life, and helps readers understand “what Chinese people are like and what their thinking modes and living customs are.”

In the Chinese way of describing the necessities of life, clothing ranks at the top of “clothing, food, shelter and means of travel”, which shows its important place in life. In this country with a long history of garments and ornaments, with integration of ethnic groups and cultural exchange between the East and West, clothing styles and customs have been evolving since ancient times.

作者簡介

　　華梅，天津師範大學教授，華梅服飾文化學研究所所長，原美術與設計學院院長。1983年起從事中國服裝史教學，1994年創建服飾文化學新學科。至今齣版專著56部，代錶著作有《人類服飾文化學》《服飾與中國文化》《中國服裝史》《西方服裝史》《服裝美學》等。

內頁插圖

目錄

Contents
Preface: Beautiful Chinese Clothes
From Barbarism to Monarchy
From Ancient One-piece Dresses to Casual Garments and Gowns
Incredible Silk
Imperial Clothes and Culture
Reforming Military Clothing – King Wuling of Zhao
Loose Clothes and Broad Bands
Beautiful Tang Suits
Elegant and Comfortable Casual Clothes
Official Robes
End of Monarchy – Western Clothes Come to the East
Cutting Plaits and Releasing Feet
The Coexistence of Chinese and Western-style Clothes
Improved Cheongsams Combining Chinese and Western Features
Modern Clothes
Workers’ Clothes and Farmers’ Clothes
Military Dress
Bell-bottoms and Sunglasses
Jeans and Denim

精彩書摘

　　Official Robes
　　Ancient China was a feudal society with a rigid hierarchy. This hierarchy was clearly reflected in its clothing. Because ruling regimes needed stability and stability in turn required order, such order was manifested in clothes, especially officials’ clothes. In ancient China, everybody had to abide by clothing rules, which not only involved daily customs, but also constituted a part of the state’s social institutions. All of the dynasties had rules and orders that stipulated the textures, colors, patterns and styles of clothes in detail. Imperial kinsmen’s clothes, civil and military officials’ clothes and ordinary people’s clothes were all strictly separated, and people who violated the rules were punished. This practice of standardizing and limiting the clothes and headwear of various social classes, officials, and ordinary people was obviously intended to maintain the ruling order but also enhanced the culture of Chinese clothes.
　　A common image of ancient Chinese official robes is of county officials wearing black gauze caps with two wings on both sides like two copper coins, a jade belt and black boots with white soles. But, in fact, this is a comic image of Chinese officials popularized during the Song and Ming dynasties. Ancient Chinese officials’ clothes were quite diverse and different dynasties had different rules, and sometimes even changed the rules several times within the same dynasty. Changing the color of officials’ clothes was usually related to the state’s stability and politics. Official robes often epitomized Chinese people’s world view and understanding of political power, and this should not be overlooked when considering clothing of this type.
　　Official robes had caps, which showed authority. During the Han Dynasty most civil officials wore the “virtue cap” with a turban below it. Military officials wore a large military cap, supplemented with a flat turban. The turban was a kind of kerchief worn by men of all ranks in the Qin and Han dynasties. However, officials’ turbans were worn below their caps, while ordinary people wore only turbans.
　　In the Wei Dynasty, Jin Dynasty and the Southern and Northern Dynasties, a translucent stiff cap was made by applying lacquer to loose and light black gauze to make it erect, and to make the top vaguely visible.
　　In the Tang Dynasty, both officials and ordinary people wore scarves but they went through different styles and stages of development. The early scarf was a low kerchief wrapped on the head. Later, a turban made of phoenix tree wood, silk, vines, grass, and leather was added under the scarf like a fake chignon, giving a fixed scarf shape. From the middle period of the Tang Dynasty, caps with fixed shapes were formed gradually, and they were still called scarves. In the Zhenguan Period, caps with low and flat tops were called the “flat and small style” and were very popular; during the reign of Emperor Gaozong and the reign of Wu Zetian, the top of the scarf was lifted and separated into two petals called the “imperial Wu family style”; during the reign of Emperor Xuanzong, the cap sloped down to the forehead and was called the “Kaiyuan inner style.” The scarf’s two corners, also called feet, at first hung naturally to the neck or below the shoulders like bands. Later, they were gradually shortened, bent upwards, inserted into a knot behind the head, and called the “soft-corner” scarf. After the middle period of the Tang Dynasty scarf corners were round or broad like hard wings curling slightly upwards, and the middle parts were like silk strings. Because they could move, or bounce, these scarf corners were called hard corners or hard feet. It is said that this scarf style became popular because Emperor Wu of the Northern Zhou Dynasty often wore it.
　　In the Song Dynasty, officials’ scarves extended to the left and right. It is said that they were long so that officials were prevented from whispering to each other when they stood in court.
　　In the Tang, Song and Ming dynasties, China’s feudal ruling system was at its most sophisticated and in this period officials’ caps changed from the scarves of the Tang and Song dynasties to the black gauze caps of the Ming Dynasty. The style did not change much: the original temporary wrapping style changed into the fixed cap style. This was the point at which the black gauze cap became a symbol associated with officials.
　　Wearing a scarf or black gauze cap, a round-collared robe (Tang), a round-collared gown (Song) or a coiled-collar robe (Ming), a jade waistband, and black leather boots became the typical image of ancient Chinese officials’ clothes.
　　The official robes of these three dynasties did not change much in style, and official ranks were related to the color of the clothing. For example, in the fourth year of the Zhenguan Period of the Tang Dynasty (630) and the first year of the Shangyuan Period (674), two decrees made stipulations about clothing colors and ornaments. The second decree was more detailed: “Level-3 and higher civil and military officials’ clothes are purple with 13 ornaments on the gold and jade band; Level-4 officials’ clothes are deep red with 11 ornaments on the gold band; Level-5 officials’ clothes are light red with 10 ornaments on the gold band; Level-6 officials’ clothes are deep green with 9 ornaments on the silver band; Level-7 officials’ clothes are light green with 9 ornaments on the silver band; Level-8 officials’ clothes are deep blue with 9 ornaments on the chalcopyrite band; Level-9 officials’ clothes are light blue with 9 ornaments on the chalcopyrite band.” The Study of the Music of the Tang Dynasty says, “The colors of Tang officials’ clothes depend on their official ranks.” These rules regarding clothing colors lasted until China’s last feudal dynasty – the Qing Dynasty – exited the stage of history, with only minor adjustments throughout its history. During the Ming Dynasty, the rules were at their most detailed, as can be seen in the following table.
　　……

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