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　　几乎从服饰出现的那天起，人们的社会身份、生活习俗、审美情趣，以及种种文化观念就已融入其中了。服饰的面貌是社会历史风貌直观、写实的反映，从这个意义上说，服饰的历史也是一部生动的文明发展史。

Almost from the day when clothes emerged, people’s social status, living customs, aesthetical tastes and various cultural concepts were integrated into them. Clothes are the most straightforward and realistic reflection of social and historical scenes. In this sense, the clothing history is also a vivid history of the development of civilization.

内容简介

丛书从源远流长的中国文化中，选取有代表性的10个领域和专题进行介绍，包括哲学思想、文学、艺术、汉字、节日、饮食、工艺、服饰、建筑、医药等10分册。通过流畅、轻松的文字和精美的图片，使海内外广大读者在愉快的阅读体验中，领略中国文化的丰富多彩、博大精深。整个系列中的每种图书既各自独立，综合起来又在精心搭就的框架下，勾勒出中国文化的总体面貌。

　　中国人习惯把日常生活概括为“衣食住行”，服饰排在了首位，可见它在生活中的重要位置。在这个历史悠久的衣冠大国，从古至今，伴随着民族间的相互融合和东西方文化的交流，服饰的样式和穿着习俗始终在不断演变。

The “Chinese Culture” book series includes ten books on philosophical thoughts, literature, art, Chinese characters, festivals, foods and drinks, crafts, clothes, architecture and medicine. Each book introduces the history of a field or theme and the same origin of Chinese culture reflected by it, pursues its existence and manifestation in Chinese people’s life today, tells those “unknown stories” through smooth and relaxing words and exquisite pictures, reveals Chinese people’s thinking habits, behavioral modes, traditional concepts and social life, and helps readers understand “what Chinese people are like and what their thinking modes and living customs are.”

In the Chinese way of describing the necessities of life, clothing ranks at the top of “clothing, food, shelter and means of travel”, which shows its important place in life. In this country with a long history of garments and ornaments, with integration of ethnic groups and cultural exchange between the East and West, clothing styles and customs have been evolving since ancient times.

作者简介

　　华梅，天津师范大学教授，华梅服饰文化学研究所所长，原美术与设计学院院长。1983年起从事中国服装史教学，1994年创建服饰文化学新学科。至今出版专著56部，代表著作有《人类服饰文化学》《服饰与中国文化》《中国服装史》《西方服装史》《服装美学》等。

内页插图

目录

Contents
Preface: Beautiful Chinese Clothes
From Barbarism to Monarchy
From Ancient One-piece Dresses to Casual Garments and Gowns
Incredible Silk
Imperial Clothes and Culture
Reforming Military Clothing – King Wuling of Zhao
Loose Clothes and Broad Bands
Beautiful Tang Suits
Elegant and Comfortable Casual Clothes
Official Robes
End of Monarchy – Western Clothes Come to the East
Cutting Plaits and Releasing Feet
The Coexistence of Chinese and Western-style Clothes
Improved Cheongsams Combining Chinese and Western Features
Modern Clothes
Workers’ Clothes and Farmers’ Clothes
Military Dress
Bell-bottoms and Sunglasses
Jeans and Denim

精彩书摘

　　Official Robes
　　Ancient China was a feudal society with a rigid hierarchy. This hierarchy was clearly reflected in its clothing. Because ruling regimes needed stability and stability in turn required order, such order was manifested in clothes, especially officials’ clothes. In ancient China, everybody had to abide by clothing rules, which not only involved daily customs, but also constituted a part of the state’s social institutions. All of the dynasties had rules and orders that stipulated the textures, colors, patterns and styles of clothes in detail. Imperial kinsmen’s clothes, civil and military officials’ clothes and ordinary people’s clothes were all strictly separated, and people who violated the rules were punished. This practice of standardizing and limiting the clothes and headwear of various social classes, officials, and ordinary people was obviously intended to maintain the ruling order but also enhanced the culture of Chinese clothes.
　　A common image of ancient Chinese official robes is of county officials wearing black gauze caps with two wings on both sides like two copper coins, a jade belt and black boots with white soles. But, in fact, this is a comic image of Chinese officials popularized during the Song and Ming dynasties. Ancient Chinese officials’ clothes were quite diverse and different dynasties had different rules, and sometimes even changed the rules several times within the same dynasty. Changing the color of officials’ clothes was usually related to the state’s stability and politics. Official robes often epitomized Chinese people’s world view and understanding of political power, and this should not be overlooked when considering clothing of this type.
　　Official robes had caps, which showed authority. During the Han Dynasty most civil officials wore the “virtue cap” with a turban below it. Military officials wore a large military cap, supplemented with a flat turban. The turban was a kind of kerchief worn by men of all ranks in the Qin and Han dynasties. However, officials’ turbans were worn below their caps, while ordinary people wore only turbans.
　　In the Wei Dynasty, Jin Dynasty and the Southern and Northern Dynasties, a translucent stiff cap was made by applying lacquer to loose and light black gauze to make it erect, and to make the top vaguely visible.
　　In the Tang Dynasty, both officials and ordinary people wore scarves but they went through different styles and stages of development. The early scarf was a low kerchief wrapped on the head. Later, a turban made of phoenix tree wood, silk, vines, grass, and leather was added under the scarf like a fake chignon, giving a fixed scarf shape. From the middle period of the Tang Dynasty, caps with fixed shapes were formed gradually, and they were still called scarves. In the Zhenguan Period, caps with low and flat tops were called the “flat and small style” and were very popular; during the reign of Emperor Gaozong and the reign of Wu Zetian, the top of the scarf was lifted and separated into two petals called the “imperial Wu family style”; during the reign of Emperor Xuanzong, the cap sloped down to the forehead and was called the “Kaiyuan inner style.” The scarf’s two corners, also called feet, at first hung naturally to the neck or below the shoulders like bands. Later, they were gradually shortened, bent upwards, inserted into a knot behind the head, and called the “soft-corner” scarf. After the middle period of the Tang Dynasty scarf corners were round or broad like hard wings curling slightly upwards, and the middle parts were like silk strings. Because they could move, or bounce, these scarf corners were called hard corners or hard feet. It is said that this scarf style became popular because Emperor Wu of the Northern Zhou Dynasty often wore it.
　　In the Song Dynasty, officials’ scarves extended to the left and right. It is said that they were long so that officials were prevented from whispering to each other when they stood in court.
　　In the Tang, Song and Ming dynasties, China’s feudal ruling system was at its most sophisticated and in this period officials’ caps changed from the scarves of the Tang and Song dynasties to the black gauze caps of the Ming Dynasty. The style did not change much: the original temporary wrapping style changed into the fixed cap style. This was the point at which the black gauze cap became a symbol associated with officials.
　　Wearing a scarf or black gauze cap, a round-collared robe (Tang), a round-collared gown (Song) or a coiled-collar robe (Ming), a jade waistband, and black leather boots became the typical image of ancient Chinese officials’ clothes.
　　The official robes of these three dynasties did not change much in style, and official ranks were related to the color of the clothing. For example, in the fourth year of the Zhenguan Period of the Tang Dynasty (630) and the first year of the Shangyuan Period (674), two decrees made stipulations about clothing colors and ornaments. The second decree was more detailed: “Level-3 and higher civil and military officials’ clothes are purple with 13 ornaments on the gold and jade band; Level-4 officials’ clothes are deep red with 11 ornaments on the gold band; Level-5 officials’ clothes are light red with 10 ornaments on the gold band; Level-6 officials’ clothes are deep green with 9 ornaments on the silver band; Level-7 officials’ clothes are light green with 9 ornaments on the silver band; Level-8 officials’ clothes are deep blue with 9 ornaments on the chalcopyrite band; Level-9 officials’ clothes are light blue with 9 ornaments on the chalcopyrite band.” The Study of the Music of the Tang Dynasty says, “The colors of Tang officials’ clothes depend on their official ranks.” These rules regarding clothing colors lasted until China’s last feudal dynasty – the Qing Dynasty – exited the stage of history, with only minor adjustments throughout its history. During the Ming Dynasty, the rules were at their most detailed, as can be seen in the following table.
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